Installations & upgrades

Electrical work for extensions, conversions and shop fit-outs

An extension, conversion or shop fit-out usually needs new circuits, sockets and lighting, and the electrical work has to fit between the stages of the build: cables go in once the shell is up and before the walls are plastered, and the fittings go on afterwards. We agree the layout with you, check that the existing installation is adequate for the extra load, install and test the new work, and issue the certificate for it at the end.

Bring us in
While the drawings are being finished, before first fix
Existing installation
Board, earthing and supply confirmed adequate for the new load first
Paperwork
An Electrical Installation Certificate where new circuits are added

Select a numbered part to highlight it on the drawing.

  1. The new circuits start here. Before anything is added, the board, the earthing and the supply are checked to confirm they are adequate for the new circuits.

  2. Circuits in the old rear wall, such as an outside light, are isolated and disconnected before demolition starts, then rerouted or taken out.

  3. Once the shell is up and weathertight, and before plastering, cables are run from the board to every agreed position.

  4. Sockets along the worktop, set out from the kitchen plan, and usually a separate circuit for the hob or cooker, with a switch to isolate it.

  5. Light positions are agreed against the ceiling joists and the furniture layout, with switches by the doors you will actually use.

  6. A fitting suitable for outdoor use on the new wall, fitted at second fix and tested with the rest of the new work.

Fig. 1 — Plan of a single-storey rear extension, with the points where the electrical work joins the build (Illustration)

Sound familiar?

Typical projects, and what complicates them

The drawing shows a single-storey rear extension, with numbers marking where the electrical work meets the build. A loft conversion or a shop unit follows the same order: check what is already there, deal with anything in the way, run the new cables while walls and ceilings are open, close up, then fit, test and certify.

If building work cuts or drills into a cable, or leaves wiring damaged or exposed, stop work in that area, keep everyone away and do not touch it, even if it looks dead. Do not tape it up or cover it over. Urgent electrical problems.

  • A rear or side-return kitchen extension that needs new socket, lighting and cooking circuits
  • A loft or garage conversion becoming a bedroom, office or shower room
  • Cables, an outside light or a socket in a wall that is about to be knocked through
  • The meter is on a wall the extension will be built against, or the supply cable runs under its footprint
  • Electric cooking, underfloor heating or other new loads that the existing board or supply may not have been sized for
  • A shop unit taken on as a bare shell, where lighting and power have to be planned from scratch
  • A unit being reconfigured for a new tenant, with old circuits to strip out before the new layout goes in
  • A builder’s programme with first-fix and plastering dates that the electrical work has to match

Who this helps

  • Homeowners extending

    Kitchen-diners, side returns and rear extensions, where socket, lighting and appliance positions need settling before anything is plastered.

  • Loft and garage conversions

    New bedrooms, offices and shower rooms, which usually need new circuits and often have existing cables in the way.

  • Builders and main contractors

    Send the drawings and programme dates, and ask us whether we can take on the electrical work for your job.

  • Shops and businesses fitting out a unit

    Lighting, sockets, till points and display power for a new or re-let unit, with an opening date to plan around.

The stages

Where the electrician joins the build

On a building project, the electrical work happens in short visits between the builder’s stages. These are the points to plan for, and what needs to be ready at each.

  1. Stage 1:Before the build starts

    The layout is agreed and the existing installation checked. If the supply or the meter needs moving or upgrading, contact your network operator or energy supplier now: it can hold up everything else.

  2. Stage 2:First fix: shell up, walls open

    Roof on, windows in, studwork and joists still exposed. Cables and back boxes go in, so the kitchen or shop layout needs to be final by this point.

  3. Stage 3:Check before plastering

    The last chance to move a position cheaply. If building control is inspecting the electrical work itself, ask whether they want to see it at this stage.

  4. Stage 4:Second fix, testing and certificate

    Once the plastering is done, accessories and fittings go on, and the new circuits are connected, tested and certified. If building control is dealing with the electrical work, they will normally want a copy of the certificate before signing off the project.

Step by step

How the work is done

Before we quote

To price an extension or conversion we need the drawings, the kitchen layout if there is one, and your idea of where sockets, switches and lights should go. For a shop, the shopfitter’s layout and the landlord’s requirements for tenant works do the same job. A rough sketch is enough at an early stage; positions can be refined before first fix.

We also need to see the existing installation. The consumer unit, the earthing arrangement and the rating of the main fuse tell us whether the new circuits can connect as things stand, or whether the board or the supply needs attention first, so most projects need a site visit as well as drawings.

  1. Step 1:Agree the layout

    We go through the drawings with you, and your builder or shopfitter, and agree where every socket, switch, light and appliance connection goes.

  2. Step 2:Check what is already there

    The consumer unit, earthing, bonding and supply are checked to confirm they are adequate for the new work, so anything they need is known before the build depends on it.

  3. Step 3:Quote and dates

    The written quote sets out the work. Dates for first and second fix are then agreed against your builder’s programme.

  4. Step 4:Disconnect what is in the way

    Before demolition, circuits in walls and ceilings that are coming out are isolated and disconnected, and anything still needed is rerouted.

  5. Step 5:First fix

    Cables and back boxes go in once the shell is up and weathertight, and the routes are checked before the builder plasters over them.

  6. Step 6:Second fix

    After plastering, sockets, switches and light fittings are fitted, and the new circuits are connected at the consumer unit.

  7. Step 7:Test and certify

    The new and altered work is inspected and tested, then recorded on an Electrical Installation Certificate, or on a Minor Works certificate where no new circuit was added.

Scope

What is included

Included

  • Agreeing positions for sockets, switches, lights and appliance connections
  • Checking that the existing consumer unit, earthing, bonding and supply are adequate for the new work
  • Disconnecting and rerouting circuits in walls and ceilings that are being removed
  • First fix and second fix, on dates agreed against the builder’s programme
  • Inspection and testing of the new work, and the certificate that applies to it

Depends on what we find

  • Whether the consumer unit has space and suitable protection for the new circuits, or needs replacing
  • Whether the earthing and bonding are adequate for the new work
  • Whether the incoming supply can carry the extra load, and whether a shop’s equipment needs a three-phase supply
  • In a loft conversion, how existing cables that run across the joists are dealt with before the new floor covers them
  • Defects in the existing installation: any that would affect the safety of the new work need putting right before it is connected, and that extra work is agreed with you first; others are recorded on the certificate

Afterwards

  • Keep the electrical certificate with the building regulations paperwork for the project: buyers’ solicitors usually ask for both when you sell
  • Put the recommended date for the next inspection, shown on the certificate, in your diary
  • For a shop, keep the certificate with your premises records, because landlords and insurers may ask to see it

Not covered by this service: Building, plastering, making good and decorating: these are for your builder; Moving or upgrading the incoming supply cable and cut-out (your network operator’s) or the meter (your energy supplier’s); Temporary site power during the build (a separate service).

The paperwork you may receive

  • Electrical Installation Certificate

    New installations, rewires and new circuits.

    • What was installed and the design details
    • A schedule of test results for each circuit
    • Signatures for design, installation and inspection
  • Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate

    Small additions and alterations that do not add a new circuit, such as an extra socket on an existing circuit.

    • A description of the work
    • Test results for the circuit that was altered
    • The signature of the person responsible

Simplified outline, not a real certificate (Illustration)

Standards and regulations

We are a NICEIC Approved Contractor, registration number 619998000, and fully insured. How to check our registration and insurance.

  • REFInstallation and testing to the current edition of BS 7671, the IET Wiring Regulations
  • REFUnder BS 7671, no addition or alteration may be made to an existing installation until it has been confirmed that the rating and condition of the existing equipment that will carry the extra load, including the network operator’s, are adequate, and that the earthing and bonding the new work relies on are adequate
  • REFIn England, electrical work in a home is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations if it adds a new circuit, replaces a consumer unit, or adds to or alters a circuit in a special location such as the space around a bath or shower; notifiable work must be notified to building control
  • REFFor shops and other workplaces, the Electricity at Work Regulations 1989, under which electrical systems must be constructed, and maintained as necessary, so as to prevent danger, so far as is reasonably practicable

Questions

Questions about extensions & fit-outs

When should I bring an electrician into an extension project?

As early as you can: ideally while the drawings are being finished, and certainly before first fix. Moving a socket on paper costs nothing, while moving it after plastering means cutting into a new wall. Starting early also leaves time to deal with the consumer unit or the supply if they need work.

Will my existing consumer unit cope with the extension?

It depends on what is there now and what you are adding. We look at whether the board has space and suitable protection for new circuits, whether the earthing is adequate, and whether the supply can carry the extra load, especially with electric cooking or underfloor heating. Sometimes the new circuits connect into the existing board; sometimes the board needs replacing, or a separate board for the extension makes more sense. That is what the check before the quote is for.

The meter is on the wall we are building against. What happens to it?

Contact your network operator and energy supplier as soon as the plans are drawn. The cut-out (main fuse) and the cable that feeds it belong to the network operator, and the meter belongs to your energy supplier or its meter operator, so only they can move them, and it takes time to arrange. Moving the consumer unit and the wiring from the meter onwards is work on your own installation, which we can quote for alongside the extension.

Does the electrical work in my extension need building control?

In England, a new circuit in a home is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations, and many extensions and conversions add one. Notifiable work is either done by an installer registered with a competent person scheme, who notifies it through the scheme, or notified to building control before work starts, often as part of the project’s own building regulations application. Work that is not notifiable still has to meet the Building Regulations. Ask us and your building control body how the electrical work will be covered before first fix.

What electrical work does a loft conversion involve?

Usually new lighting and socket circuits for the new floor. Existing lighting cables often run across the ceiling joists of the rooms below, so they need moving or protecting before the new floor goes down, and new cables have to be sized and routed with the insulation in mind. A shower room brings in the BS 7671 rules for rooms with a bath or shower. Building regulations normally expect mains-powered, interlinked smoke alarms in a loft conversion; building control will confirm what yours needs, and the wiring is planned at first fix.

Can I buy my own light fittings and sockets?

Ask us before you buy. Some fittings need particular back boxes, ceiling hole sizes, drivers or ratings: fire-rated downlights where the ceiling needs them, for example, or fittings suitable for a bathroom or outdoors. We need the details before first fix, and the quote should say who is supplying what.

How is a shop fit-out different?

The order of work is similar, but the starting point changes. The landlord may have requirements for tenant works, the shopfitter’s layout fixes where counters, displays and signage go, and the equipment list sets the load. Whether the premises need emergency lighting, and where, follows from the fire risk assessment, so it helps to have that settled before first fix. It also helps to plan the work back from the date you want to open.

My builder is organising the trades. Who gets the electrical certificate?

BS 7671 requires the certificate to be given to the person who ordered the work, so if your builder engaged the electrician, it goes to them. Ask your builder to pass it on at handover with the rest of the completion paperwork: you need it for your records, when you sell, and when the installation is next inspected.

Next step

Plan the electrics before first fix

The earlier we see the drawings and the build dates, the easier it is to fit the electrical work to your programme, and the sooner any change to the supply can be raised with your network operator, before it holds the build up.

What to send us

  • The type of project and the postcode: extension, loft or garage conversion, or shop unit
  • Drawings, the kitchen or shop layout, and where you want sockets, switches and lights if you know
  • The builder’s programme, especially the planned first-fix and plastering dates
  • Photos of the consumer unit and the meter position, taken without opening or removing anything
  • Any electric cooking, heating or other large loads you are planning
  • For a shop: the landlord’s requirements for tenant works and your opening date

An enquiry is not a booking: we contact you first, and you see a written quote before anything goes ahead.

We list towns in London and surrounding areas, Kent, Essex, East Sussex and West Sussex. Check your postcode.

Call or email us for a free quote

Tell us the postcode and a little about the job. We will contact you to discuss it, and you get a written quote before any work starts. Quotes are free. Some survey or diagnostic visits may be charged: ask when you book.

Our email address: support@dualcurrent.co.uk

Helpful to include

  • The postcode of the property
  • What the job is, or what is going wrong
  • Photos, if you have them, taken without removing any covers